IS THE BEST EQUIPMENT WORTH THE INVESTMENT ?
Let's start with cables that are more expensive than the devices:
To have any chance of hearing a difference between very expensive cables, you need to have similar devices.
I have very good devices, but still can't hear a difference between expensive cables; except for cables that are well shielded, which give less noise, but no difference in sound quality.
But cables CAN make audible differences:
Try connecting the speakers with a ground cable versus normal cables, and hear the difference, even with bad devices..!
A ground cable gives TERRIBLE sound.
Mp3 versus Wave:
I have no problem hearing a difference between these, but if the base recording is very bad, it can be very difficult to hear any difference - the better the recording, the bigger and clearer the difference.
Crossover components affect the sound perhaps more than anything else, and I can clearly hear the difference between bad and good coils and capacitors, for example.
One thing is very important to be aware of, and that is that no chain is stronger than its weakest link.
If, for example, you have very good devices and connect one that is not so good, you will hear this immediately and mercilessly.
Another and often forgotten thing is that all devices must match each other sonically; they should have approximately the same sound signature.
I was reminded of this when I replaced my MBL preamp with FM Acoustics, which resulted in a formidable improvement in the entire sound image, including the subbass content.
And last but not least, my JBL horns became quite ordinary without the foil membranes; the perspective was destroyed, and the dynamics disappeared.
When I build speakers, I test different units to find one with the same signature (tone color) as the others, and avoid making complex crossovers; preferably just a capacitor/coil.
This is the best way; to choose the most suitable unit that does not require any adjustments.
My new mini horns project that I will soon start are thus a game of chance, because I only have minimal data to base the choice of unit on, and do not know its sound signature until I have tested it.
These units also cost a bit; about $250, but would have cost many times more in Norway purchased from a regular dealer.
But work like this is what I like best, because it is incredibly rewarding when you succeed, and I happily spend money to achieve this goal, because I control all the processes myself.
I prefer to develop and make things myself.
Let's start with cables that are more expensive than the devices:
To have any chance of hearing a difference between very expensive cables, you need to have similar devices.
I have very good devices, but still can't hear a difference between expensive cables; except for cables that are well shielded, which give less noise, but no difference in sound quality.
But cables CAN make audible differences:
Try connecting the speakers with a ground cable versus normal cables, and hear the difference, even with bad devices..!
A ground cable gives TERRIBLE sound.
Mp3 versus Wave:
I have no problem hearing a difference between these, but if the base recording is very bad, it can be very difficult to hear any difference - the better the recording, the bigger and clearer the difference.
Crossover components affect the sound perhaps more than anything else, and I can clearly hear the difference between bad and good coils and capacitors, for example.
One thing is very important to be aware of, and that is that no chain is stronger than its weakest link.
If, for example, you have very good devices and connect one that is not so good, you will hear this immediately and mercilessly.
Another and often forgotten thing is that all devices must match each other sonically; they should have approximately the same sound signature.
I was reminded of this when I replaced my MBL preamp with FM Acoustics, which resulted in a formidable improvement in the entire sound image, including the subbass content.
And last but not least, my JBL horns became quite ordinary without the foil membranes; the perspective was destroyed, and the dynamics disappeared.
When I build speakers, I test different units to find one with the same signature (tone color) as the others, and avoid making complex crossovers; preferably just a capacitor/coil.
This is the best way; to choose the most suitable unit that does not require any adjustments.
My new mini horns project that I will soon start are thus a game of chance, because I only have minimal data to base the choice of unit on, and do not know its sound signature until I have tested it.
These units also cost a bit; about $250, but would have cost many times more in Norway purchased from a regular dealer.
But work like this is what I like best, because it is incredibly rewarding when you succeed, and I happily spend money to achieve this goal, because I control all the processes myself.
I prefer to develop and make things myself.
Shared knowledge provides increased knowledge
If we all share everything we have, we all have everything
Every theory is only a hypothesis until it is practically proven
KEYBOARDS, SYNTHS & MODULES I HAVE HAD AND HAVE
Casio CTK 811-ex ||| Roland EXR-7 76 ||| Yamaha DGX-620 ||| Yamaha PSR-550 ||| Yamaha PSR-S700 ||| Korg Pa800 ||| Korg Pa3X 61 ||| Deebach XMS-Pro ||| Ketron Ajamsonic ||| Casio WK-7500 ||| Yamaha Tyros5 61 ||| vArranger ||| Ketron Audya5 61 ||| Yamaha PSR S950 ||| Solton X8 Chromatic ||| Yamaha Tyros4 10th Anniversary ||| Korg Pa4X 61 ||| Roland BK-7m ||| Technics KN-6000 ||| Technics KN-7000 ||| Roli Seaboard RISE 49 ||| Deebach MAX Plus ||| Yamaha Genos ||| Korg Pa700 ||| Korg Kronos2 73 ||| Tyros4 61 ||| Deebach BlackBox ||| Korg Pa2X Pro ||| Yamaha A3000 ||| Ghenos Plus ||| Medeli AKX10 ||| Korg Nautilus 73 ||| Yamaha DGX-670 ||| Korg Krome EX-88 ||| Korg OASYS 76 Sondius-XG version ||| Korg Pa5X 76 (Pythagoras Tuned) ||| Yamaha Tyros1 ||| Ketron Audya 76 (Own developed OS) ||| Yamaha PSR-3000 ||| Yamaha 9000 Pro ||| Yamaha MODX M8 ||| Korg Grandstage X ||| Roland Juno-D7 ||| Korg Kronos 1 73 (Pythagoras Tuned)
MY PA EQUIPMENT NON-ACTIVE AND ACTIVE
Aune S6 32 bit/384 kb DAC ||| Topping USB Isolator ||| MOTU 32 bit Audio Interface ||| TEYUN Q26 32 bit/384 kb Audio Interface ||| FM Acoustics FM 300A Power amp ||| FM Acoustics FM 255 Resolution Series Pre amp ||| MBL 6010 Pre Amp ||| STAX SR-L300 (Lambda) electrostatic headphones with STAX SRM-252S Amplifier ||| beyerdynamic T70 headphones (without pads) ||| Baffle horns equipped with Seas Exotic 8" fullrange units ||| JBL horns with Compression Planar membranes ||| Fountek NeoPro 5i (Special Edition) ribbon tweeters with Compression Planar membranes ||| Hexagonal subwoofer with 12 pieces Push&Pull coupled Seas Prestige 8" units, 1 item 10" slave unit and built-in XTZ power amplifiers & Cambridge Azur 640A as pre amplifier ||| Yamaha HS-5 active monitors connected to all keyboards
If we all share everything we have, we all have everything
Every theory is only a hypothesis until it is practically proven
KEYBOARDS, SYNTHS & MODULES I HAVE HAD AND HAVE
Casio CTK 811-ex ||| Roland EXR-7 76 ||| Yamaha DGX-620 ||| Yamaha PSR-550 ||| Yamaha PSR-S700 ||| Korg Pa800 ||| Korg Pa3X 61 ||| Deebach XMS-Pro ||| Ketron Ajamsonic ||| Casio WK-7500 ||| Yamaha Tyros5 61 ||| vArranger ||| Ketron Audya5 61 ||| Yamaha PSR S950 ||| Solton X8 Chromatic ||| Yamaha Tyros4 10th Anniversary ||| Korg Pa4X 61 ||| Roland BK-7m ||| Technics KN-6000 ||| Technics KN-7000 ||| Roli Seaboard RISE 49 ||| Deebach MAX Plus ||| Yamaha Genos ||| Korg Pa700 ||| Korg Kronos2 73 ||| Tyros4 61 ||| Deebach BlackBox ||| Korg Pa2X Pro ||| Yamaha A3000 ||| Ghenos Plus ||| Medeli AKX10 ||| Korg Nautilus 73 ||| Yamaha DGX-670 ||| Korg Krome EX-88 ||| Korg OASYS 76 Sondius-XG version ||| Korg Pa5X 76 (Pythagoras Tuned) ||| Yamaha Tyros1 ||| Ketron Audya 76 (Own developed OS) ||| Yamaha PSR-3000 ||| Yamaha 9000 Pro ||| Yamaha MODX M8 ||| Korg Grandstage X ||| Roland Juno-D7 ||| Korg Kronos 1 73 (Pythagoras Tuned)
MY PA EQUIPMENT NON-ACTIVE AND ACTIVE
Aune S6 32 bit/384 kb DAC ||| Topping USB Isolator ||| MOTU 32 bit Audio Interface ||| TEYUN Q26 32 bit/384 kb Audio Interface ||| FM Acoustics FM 300A Power amp ||| FM Acoustics FM 255 Resolution Series Pre amp ||| MBL 6010 Pre Amp ||| STAX SR-L300 (Lambda) electrostatic headphones with STAX SRM-252S Amplifier ||| beyerdynamic T70 headphones (without pads) ||| Baffle horns equipped with Seas Exotic 8" fullrange units ||| JBL horns with Compression Planar membranes ||| Fountek NeoPro 5i (Special Edition) ribbon tweeters with Compression Planar membranes ||| Hexagonal subwoofer with 12 pieces Push&Pull coupled Seas Prestige 8" units, 1 item 10" slave unit and built-in XTZ power amplifiers & Cambridge Azur 640A as pre amplifier ||| Yamaha HS-5 active monitors connected to all keyboards



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